The heat is on: BBQ your way to the top
We’re not just gumboots, swanndris, milk and honey here in New Zealand.
These days, we’re also barbequing aficionados and smoked meat enthusiasts. And we’re not shy of a little grilling competition and camaraderie. New Zealand’s BBQ Pitmasters Facebook page has over 28,000 active members, many of whom attended this year’s national Meatstock festival in February. This annual event – now in its third year – saw over 60 teams light up the charcoal and take meat to grill to compete for the grand title of best barbequers in the country. Rallying those teams along was Kiwi barbequing legend Mike Jeffries, a ‘Moe Cason’ team member in the international Memphis in May World Championship Barbequing Competition and director of The Big Smoke BBQ. henry’s Dee sparked up conversation with Mike, alongside his grilling partner Carl Edwards, and Luke Seeney, a head judge of Meatstock and the Australasian Barbeque Alliance and director of Smokin Beards BBQ. Here’s the low down on the slow down…
Running hot or cold?
First things first, before we pick up the tongs and light the charcoal, what sort of barbeque smoking technique should we be aiming for?
“The trend we’re seeing here in New Zealand at the moment when people talk about smoking meats is barbequing using charcoal or wood as a main fuel,” says Luke Seeney. “Primarily ‘low and slow’ – that’s your ribs, beef short ribs, pork butt, brisket, pulled pork – which originated in the US.”
Hot smoking food for a long period of time at a lower temperature allows the proteins in the meat to transform and become tender. “Traditional barbeque uses wood fire to achieve this which also imparts a lot of smoke flavour,” explains Carl Edwards. “Cold smoking is more of a curing technique used to infuse a smoked flavour without changing the proteins. Mainly it dries the food to help preserve it.”
Vessel of choice for low and slow barbequing?
Investing in a charcoal barbeque is going to make a huge difference to your smoked meats, explains Mike Jeffries and, “they don’t have to be too flashy.”
If you’re intent on making do with what you’ve got – i.e. gas barbeque – there are ways you can work with that too, says Luke.
“The idea behind cooking meat low and slow is that you’re cooking the meat offset from the heat, so if you have a gas barbeque you want the meat at the opposite end from the burners,” he says. “Most good barbeque stores will have ‘smoking boxes’ for wood chips which you place in your grill to give extra smoke flavour.”
Consistency of heat is what you’re aiming for no matter your barbequing set up, says Carl.
“In terms of a kettle barbeque, it pretty much comes down to placement of your coals. You don’t want to be cooking directly over them, but you also need a consistent heat source. Try looking up snake methods – they work quite well.”
Turn up the heat and take your time
Getting the temperature and timing right is key to tasty and succulent results – neither should be taken lightly.
“We pit masters always cook in Fahrenheit – generally around 275°F − for low and slow like brisket,”says Mike.
Luke agrees. “250°F to 275°F is standard. If you’re cooking hot and fast over coals then you’re looking to the high 300s°F.”
Wood? What wood?
Just like cuts of meat, no two bits of wood are created equal, which is why it’s so important to choose right when burning chips for optimal results.“
Tougher meats, with a longer cooking time, absorb a lot of smoke flavour, so you don’t want too strong a wood,” advises Carl. “Young woods with lots of tar (sap/oil) will emit a lot of creosote into the smoke with bitter flavours. You don’t want meat sitting in that for a long time.”
Don’t underestimate the layering effect, enthuses Mike. “You can add wood to flavour, wood for colour and wood to finish off towards the end of the smoking,” he says. “If you’re prepared to invest time – it can up to 12 hours to cook brisket –be prepared to invest in the flavouring too.”
Searching for wood inspiration? You don’t have to look too far.
“New Zealand woods like Pohutukawa have a strong, distinct flavour and work well with fish. Whilst fruit woods (Cherry, Apple) work well with meats,” says Luke. “New Zealand Oak, Black Wattle and European Oak are also good to use.”
And before soaking your wood chips – think again, say our experts.
“There’s no real benefit. Soaking basically produces more smoke and prolongs burn time of wood – which means you’re really just smouldering. What you want to aim for is an even temperature and even heat,” says Mike.
Proper prep and cooking etiquette
Forget overnight marinating, for best results leave meat prep till the day of cooking.
“Bring your meat up to room temperature so it’s not ‘in shock’ when it hits the grill,” advises Mike. “Apply a dry rub about 40 minutes before cooking, not overnight because salt can draw out the moisture. Wait until your coals are white and the fire has burnt in before laying down your meat.”
Slicking oil all over your piece of steak isn’t going to do it any huge favours either, says Mike.
“A light oil to aid the dry rub is all you need. Once it’s been cooking a while, I’ll spray my meat with apple juice to give it a bit of moisture.”
But, be wary of lifting the lid on your smoker too often.
“There’s an old American saying: If you’re looking, you ain’t cooking,” laughs Mike. “Keep the smoke in! I wouldn’t lift in the first hour, but I’d check it every 3 ½ hours thereafter.”
Meat your final words…
Luke: “Don’t boil your ribs or any meat before putting them on the barbeque!”
Mike: “When cooking steak, I go for yellow fat – it shows it’s had a good life and will be tender.”
Carl: “Give it time – at least an hour longer than planned – then add another hour. If its ready early, great! The longer you can rest it the better it gets too.”
Main photo by Oliver Sjöström, ollivves.com